what is a dart anyhow?

-noun, a tapered seam of fabric for adjusting the fit of a garment.

Alright so this week I've been (off & on) working on the sloper for the jumper dress I mentioned in last post. I know never to trust patterns, they're never correct if I just cut the pieces out without making a muslin first --too many wasted bolts of fabric over the years proves this.

So first to get changed up were the side seams, most American sewing patterns are default for B cup -I aint that big so I had to decrease the size. (The Burda company are not American, but the patterns on the BurdaStyle site are.) Most novices get nervous at this idea and so opt to ignore the problem of the roomy booby. I really don't want the straps falling down, as they would have done if I hadn't fixed the seams: the front and back lines are both low-cut = no support for the shoulder straps, except to hold on for dear life... okay yes, i will be wearing a blouse underneath. :P

In case one is wondering why I didn't just create some darts: I hate darts... hate making them, the time it takes to make them right --and even! lop-sided boob darts are the pits --ha! which is funny, because that's exactly where I took-in the fabric!!! *le sigh* and for this reason I'm going to enjoy designing menswear.

Second thing which has been perfected are the pocket flappy deals. I was putting this together and those triangle flaps make the entire ensemble look terribly homely. Pieces 4 and 6a will be combined and made into one, part 6b will be lining to make the whole thing less bulky there (ai, chubby hips are indeed undesirable), piece 5 needs to be extended so the seam isn't right there at the edge, but tucked under....it's kinda hard to explain without using hand motions.

I understand there are loads of buttons on this thing, but the pockets detract from the line of the garment --there are 6 panels here! three in the front and three in the back, did you realize that? no, hard to spot with all those damn buttons --THIS is almost military, but only because it's drabby. Check the homesewn models, not lookin' so keen (HERE), mine will be more elegant. I'm still deciding if I want to do the belt thing at all, it's completely useless but darn cute, I know I'll use the idea elsewhere if not here.

The fabric I had a hard time with, mainly because I'm trying to use up my stash...i wanted it teal-like because so many have complimented me when I'm wearing that color, but alas, I do not have such a find. Alright, my picks:

Thought I'd go crimson, it'll be nearly autumn. Whadda think? either top pinker & red bottom or go all crinkly... crinkley?

This blue is a thicker cloth and more apt for a tailored design (the looser weave is alright only if it's lined for stability) --oh see! that's another problem with the dress, the webpage should noted that one should not make this with drapey fabrics because it will look schlumpy, which the others do. ;)

So I've chosen this (bottom), unless something else comes along. It's purple, although looks a bit grey here (kinda the point & also why I like it). The dragony fabric I've had for a long time, I wanted it for something special and that opportunity has never arisen. This will be my pocket lining and the underskirt... I think I'll make it like an inverted kick pleat perhaps... uh naw, maybe not, a bit distracting... I guess we'll both find out in the next post. :)

postscript: I just realized why my pictures aren't clickable, I've moved them, they default at the top of the page when I add them, that doesn't help me... oh blogger, how rude!