Saturday, May 31, 2008

Athough not for another year....

...props to Robbo.

This is my muse and my model, can anyone discover the reason why?

It was he who informed me about the importance of a well-made bespoke wool suit and the inspiration to design them.

photo credit: James Chapman (n.b. the jacket is not mine, in case you were wondering)

Friday, May 30, 2008

"and now for something completely different."


A friend, whom I have never met, is moving to Portland in about a month... and it made me jealous and it made me think. if I cannot move yet (but may be the end of the year!) why do I make myself sulk at that which I cannot have... basically, the things I love have become things I abhor. I don't want to talk about moving to the Northwest, because I cannot move to the Northwest right now. I try not to think about gorgeous wool suiting fabrics and garment details like tuxedo tails and spread collars. However, I have to surround myself with these things to keep myself sane, even if at first glance I may seem like a crazy hermit. Thanks for reading. :)
(photo is of The Pied Cow in Portland, Oregon)

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

'tis perfection!

Alright! this sloper is finished. Now on to cutting the real fabric.
The last thing to be changed was the issue of the straps falling down, this seemed to be a problem with everyone's jumper. I simply raised the back piece by 4 inches...well 3.5" actually.

Seems to work much better, I have zero strappy issue with this muslin --and that's with no lining support and baste stitching. :) gosh I'm such a damn genius!

...try not to mind my "twin" or the horrid office mess in da background.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

what is a dart anyhow?

-noun, a tapered seam of fabric for adjusting the fit of a garment.

Alright so this week I've been (off & on) working on the sloper for the jumper dress I mentioned in last post. I know never to trust patterns, they're never correct if I just cut the pieces out without making a muslin first --too many wasted bolts of fabric over the years proves this.

So first to get changed up were the side seams, most American sewing patterns are default for B cup -I aint that big so I had to decrease the size. (The Burda company are not American, but the patterns on the BurdaStyle site are.) Most novices get nervous at this idea and so opt to ignore the problem of the roomy booby. I really don't want the straps falling down, as they would have done if I hadn't fixed the seams: the front and back lines are both low-cut = no support for the shoulder straps, except to hold on for dear life... okay yes, i will be wearing a blouse underneath. :P

In case one is wondering why I didn't just create some darts: I hate darts... hate making them, the time it takes to make them right --and even! lop-sided boob darts are the pits --ha! which is funny, because that's exactly where I took-in the fabric!!! *le sigh* and for this reason I'm going to enjoy designing menswear.

Second thing which has been perfected are the pocket flappy deals. I was putting this together and those triangle flaps make the entire ensemble look terribly homely. Pieces 4 and 6a will be combined and made into one, part 6b will be lining to make the whole thing less bulky there (ai, chubby hips are indeed undesirable), piece 5 needs to be extended so the seam isn't right there at the edge, but tucked's kinda hard to explain without using hand motions.

I understand there are loads of buttons on this thing, but the pockets detract from the line of the garment --there are 6 panels here! three in the front and three in the back, did you realize that? no, hard to spot with all those damn buttons --THIS is almost military, but only because it's drabby. Check the homesewn models, not lookin' so keen (HERE), mine will be more elegant. I'm still deciding if I want to do the belt thing at all, it's completely useless but darn cute, I know I'll use the idea elsewhere if not here.

The fabric I had a hard time with, mainly because I'm trying to use up my stash...i wanted it teal-like because so many have complimented me when I'm wearing that color, but alas, I do not have such a find. Alright, my picks:

Thought I'd go crimson, it'll be nearly autumn. Whadda think? either top pinker & red bottom or go all crinkly... crinkley?

This blue is a thicker cloth and more apt for a tailored design (the looser weave is alright only if it's lined for stability) --oh see! that's another problem with the dress, the webpage should noted that one should not make this with drapey fabrics because it will look schlumpy, which the others do. ;)

So I've chosen this (bottom), unless something else comes along. It's purple, although looks a bit grey here (kinda the point & also why I like it). The dragony fabric I've had for a long time, I wanted it for something special and that opportunity has never arisen. This will be my pocket lining and the underskirt... I think I'll make it like an inverted kick pleat perhaps... uh naw, maybe not, a bit distracting... I guess we'll both find out in the next post. :)

postscript: I just realized why my pictures aren't clickable, I've moved them, they default at the top of the page when I add them, that doesn't help me... oh blogger, how rude!

Saturday, May 10, 2008

camps de luca...say what?

firstly let me post this, a video i wish i could understand.

there, now: My cousin Tara is getting married at the end of summer. I plan on making this dress well before that *two sets of crosses fingers* --exactly my style. I've grown up with calico flowy skirts (most were made by myself), and this is more my forte. It's slightly tailored, lots of little pieces --I loooove it, also love the fact the pattern was free. yay!

I may make one in a similar drabby color like this, or perhaps one in a brighter navy ...but I'm not sure which color I should go with for the wedding, both are more autumy...ah well, August 30th is nearly there anyhow. :) ...i like those boots.

thirdly, a men's fashion forum!: i found it while rushing through Sleevehead's blog --yes, another jewel of a find this week.

Whoo! now to finish some horrible website coding so I can get on with life.

Monday, May 5, 2008

there shan't be vampires near me.

Garlic Dip

For a great appetizer before dinner or as a snack any time of the day, try this quick and easy-to-make dip that goes with any type of fresh cut vegetables.

Prep and Cook Time:

2 cups cooked or canned garbanzo beans
1 TBS fresh lemon juice
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup chicken or vegetable broth
3 TBS extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.
Serve with carrot sticks, celery sticks or any raw vegetable of your choice.
Serves 8

this just looks tasty. mmm! garlics.

Thursday, May 1, 2008

a gentleman never wears brown in town.

a look into the life of savile row tailors... it is a bit long, if you're wondering.